The Story of Bedroom Lingerie and Nightwear Fashions change and this is no truer than in what women wear in the bedroom. Up to the 1500s it was nothing, thereafter for a few centuries the bedroom became a place to lounge around and receive visitors. Nightgowns overlaid with robes were worn for much of the day.
Alternatively there was a garment that looked like a corset with petticoats attached to the waist but which left the breasts and legs exposed. This garment was known as the casaquin and shows that women of the sixteenth century and onwards recognised the advantages of a little fun in the boudoir.
As might be expected the casaquin was not a garment appreciated by nineteenth century Protestants and it was replaced by the starched, laced or buttoned-up nightdress which enveloped women from the neck to the wrists and ankles.
But by the start of the twentieth century lingerie provided one escape from the traditional nineteenth century notions of morality and respectable womanhood. Valerie Steele, on surveying early twentieth century attitudes to lingerie, comments that "More women were dressing attractively for intimate moments and their own pleasure."
Bedroom-wear became ornate and laden with decoration; there were boudoir gowns of satin with lace and velvet, informal 'dinner negligees' and silk slips to put on over a nightgown. There were even heavily embroidered 'tea gowns' worn over a corset when entertaining one's most intimate friends.
The First World War changed the face of affluent society and there was less emphasis on frills and frippery. There was also a vogue for pyjamas although this took time to build as it was unfashionable to wear garments that had such a strong masculine association.
However, by the late 1920s tailored pyjamas were very popular and allowed new and innovative lingerie pieces. Vogue commented, "The smart woman travels with lovely lingerie and amusing pyjamas…"
Streamlined styles were popular. Women wore long nightgowns and in the days before central heating under a light dress or negligee would be a matching set of a long sleeved nightshirt or chemise and panties.
Black lace made its debut during the 1920s revealing a sexily clad figure that was meant to be displayed. The 1930s continued this theme of femininity and nightgowns became modelled after the bias-cut evening dress. Often nightgowns were made in transparent materials with a low cut neck and gaping sides and perhaps worn with a little bolero top or shawl.
Towards the end of the 1930s lighter materials like silk and chiffon became popular for nightgowns now known as 'nighties'.
World War II put the emphasis on practicality rather than glamour. If you were to spend the night in a bomb shelter it was as well to be modest and warm. Wool flannel Wincey was popular for both day and night wear.
At the end of the war the demure high necked, long sleeved negligee was high fashion but it wasn't long before American Vogue declared, "After the austere years of unpretty lingerie we can have it once again frilled and be-ribonned in the feminine way."
Elegant and frivolous pyjamas were also popular. In fact women had taken to wearing just pyjama tops and in response designers began to create short nightgowns that just reached the top of the thigh in light, transparent fabrics. For the first time in generations women were choosing to sleep naked or as good as.
Like most other forms of lingerie nightwear was changing in the 1950s. There were the most covered-up styles of pyjama and nightgown, striped tunics, and sexy little pieces. In 1956 Carol Baker appeared in the film Baby Doll and a range of Baby Doll bedroom wear followed.
By the 1960s lingerie had become light-hearted and frilly. The most luxurious nightdresses and dressing gowns were made from the sheerest voile and chiffon. Pleating remained fashionable, stripes and flowered prints were popular. Nylon allowed lightness, drying speed and an increasing range of enchantingly pretty colours.
As cotton and nylon blends such as Dacron, which looked like freshly ironed cotton but needed little ironing, grew in popularity in the 1970s the demand for nylon nightdresses fell away. Silk and wool mixes were also used for nightgowns.
Baby Doll nightdresses were considered high fashion and usually worn without panties; although co-ordinated underwear and nightwear was popular. By the 1980s frilly Baby Dolls were being replaced by long soft jersey or chiffon nightdresses and luxurious pyjamas made a comeback.
Women wanted to look sexy and be comfortable in the bedroom and by the end of the 1990s this was possible. A decidedly feminine edge dominates designs for boudoir chic.
There is a style to meet every desire; the simple Egyptian cotton camisole worn by Nicole Kidman in Stanley Kubrick's last film Eyes Wide Shut has been a major seller, lingerie can be simple or frilly.
Bedroom lingerie has moved out of the bedroom and is seen in Club Wear, the Boardroom and the High Street. Such lingerie is now more erotic than the naked body as the fabrics mirror the feel of idealized flesh. It whispers of private pleasures. Today one dresses rather than undresses for sex. Anything goes!
Sources and References:
Extracts taken from "The Best in Lingerie Design" by Joy McKenzie, published by BT Batsford 1997
Extracts taken from "A Century of Style: Lingerie" by Karen W. Bressler, Karoline Newman, Gillian Proctor, published by the Apple Press 1998
Extracts taken from "Lingerie A Lexicon of Style" by Caroline Cox, published by Scriptum Editions 2000
Extracts taken from "Making Lingerie and Nightwear" by Nicholas Bullen, published by Mills and Boon 1979
